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Yuki's picture
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Joined: 2017-08-09

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Hello all! I got my little devil, Steiner, almost 2 weeks ago. Love him in bites but he is a pain to walk with. 

I usually just walk him for 10 minutes morning and afternoon, but he is usually not very cooperative. Here is the routine:

Take him outside, he tries to dash to the front lawn (I am in progress of training him to sit, and he is leashed up). Then drags me around while he sniffs and look for potty spots. Then I try to lure him away from the house, he will usually whine and look back towards our home. So it's usually really tiresome for me to get him walk not even a block. I do let him roam a bit and tries to recall him with rewards.

Now going back to the house is a problem. He always pull on the leash as he tries to go back to the house as soon as possible. I tried many ways like standing still then wait for him to calm down, or call his name and wait until he respond (usually doesn't even look up to me). Then when I said the release word, he would lunge forward again. 

I can still control him now, but can't imagin he keeps at it once grown up. How can I stop this rushing back to house behavior? 

CRDobe's picture
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Joined: 2014-11-06

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Training, training, training and practice, practice, practice. Add lots of patience and it WILL improve!

CRDobe's picture
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Joined: 2014-11-06

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Also, a 10 minute walk morning and night is not NEAR enogh exercise for a young dober-devil!

Yuki's picture
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Joined: 2017-08-09

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Yes I figured! I let him out to play yesterday night for a good half hour in the back yard. Oh boy he behaved well afterwards.

SIH002's picture
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Joined: 2014-12-15

There is a saying among Dobie parents.  "A Good Doberman is a Tired Doberman"  those words will run thru your head his entire life.

Looked into your profile and saw the puppy is 11 weeks old. Don't sweat it. At this age EVERYTHING is new and interesting. The puppy will have the attention span of a gnat so all of your training at this point will be in short sessions of about 5 minutes several times a day. Sessions should be done "before" he's been fed. If he's hungry he'll be much more interested in the food bribe. Always keep your bribe pouch on you when you interact with the puppy. Stay prepared to reward a wanted behavior whether asked for or not. Keep in mind the puppy does not speak human, in fact he more than likely doesn't quite know his name yet.

All of your teaching will be via "luring". For "Sit", hold the bribe in front of his nose, move the bribe forward a little then up and back over his head. His rear should go down to a sit and the moment his butt hits the ground give the word sit and feed the bribe with a enthusiastic "attaboy!!" and some pets. "Down is very similar. Hold the bribe in front of his nose, move forward then over his head (he sits) then down to the ground and move forward just a bit and the puppy should lay down, followed by the food, command "down" and the attaboy. With heel hold the bribe in front of his nose and start walking. If you get 2 steps in position reward with the bribe. If you get more steps just keep feeding the bribes. The door. The door never opens until he sits. The second he sits the door opens. The open door is the reward. No bribe needed. He'll get up and go through the open door and at this point that's OK. You can teach patients latter on.

At this age you're just teaching behaviors and putting a sound (word) to that behavior. Your bribe and marker has to come within 1 1/2 second for the dog to make the connection. Any longer than that you've missed your moment. If that happens just do it again. When you reward reward for full sits and downs, not hovers. So timing is important. If he doesn't do it, do not reward, try again.

You should use a "marker". A marker is a word or a sound (like a clicker) to mark that moment in time that the dog does what he should have. You give the command "sit" the dog sits, you click (or use your marker word) and feed. The word I use is "YES!".

When you teach at this age and his stage of knowledge, it's best to do this somewhere that they're are no distractions. Kitchen, den, garage. When you see he is getting the picture you can move to the backyard and as he gets better, the front yard and so on. Every thing that you need to teach him can be taught within a few feet of where you stand. Don't go for time or distance for a while yet. Keep him close.

I'm going touch on recall "come" and this is one reason you'll keep your bait bag handy at all times. To start, with the dog in front of you hold the bait in front of his nose and start backing up (giving the command "come") with the dog following the bait. A few steps backwards then feed the dog. When you're just walking around the house and call the dog and he comes, he gets fed. If you see he's coming of his own accord, give the command and feed him when he gets there. Starting to see why you keep your bait bag on you at all times? He'll soon realize that when he hears the command that food is involved and he'll come a running.

Don't confuse commands. An example would be "down". If "down" is your lay down command you don't want to use it for getting the dog off the sofa or from jumping on you. A better command for that would be "off". Keep your commands clear and concise. Another word to steer clear of is "NO!". The word "no" gets used too much in every day speak. I use "PHOOY!". That doesn't get used too often.

Like I said, don't sweat it. With some time commitment and consistence, he'll catch on very quickly.   

Gunny

 

Joined: 2016-04-25

Check out youtube videos by Ingrams Sit and Stay Academy ...out of Tampa Florida 

Great place to start for examples on puppy training. 

Positive reinforcement based ...

Clarke Ingram (head trainer) is a master trainer ........is use to train dogs for the Military...then opened his own business. 

He always say the toughest to train is the Humans! 

Check out these videos .....it will give you a great idea of what his training is all about......